Essays 27 results
  • Among the Very Tall

    The drive into Waikiki from the Honolulu Airport takes us first along the city’s notoriously clogged freeways, victims initially of bad design and later an undercalculated influx of people and cars. Stopping, then going, crawling then picking up ...
  • The Happy Islets of Langerhans

    “My journey seemed perfect, well, at least one part of it—a dolphin swimming in a kitchen sink.” I wrote these words in a diary on January 3rd, 2003. I have no idea why. They may not even be my words. I would not write them now, reality ...
  • LA’s Frogtown, on the Cusp of Change

    The Spoke Bicycle Cafe sits on the last lot of the last block of a dead-end Los Angeles street. It can be remarkably sunny here, in a way that makes your eyes hurt. The street stops at a chain-link fence, bringing what little traffic exists here to ...
  • Saturini: From Hinterland to Hordes in the Greek Isles

    Arriving by boat to Santorini, the theatrical C-shaped island in Greece’s Aegean Sea, means first entering the strange purgatory of the port, which of course sits at sea level, 1,200 feet below the villages atop the cliffs that everyone is here to ...
  • Throwback Vibes on Azerbaijan Airlines

    The first time I passed through Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, I spent four hours in its airport waiting for my connecting flight. Heydar Aliyev International Airport was a strange place back in 2011. It was not in fact even named Heydar Aliyev ...
  • Keep It Up, Kid: A Two-Part Dalliance

    Sometime during the summer that I was 23 years old, my Eurail pass landed me in Copenhagen, where I stayed for a week. One of those fortuitous scenarios unfolded in my chosen hostel, amid days that lasted until Midnight and people that looked like ...
  • From Beach Bungalows to Artisanal Dinners, A Tulum Postmortem

    The cot was uncomfortable. Stiff, cramped, it would have sufficed at a youth hostel. But I was at a chic resort on one of the world’s most luxurious beaches and shelling out over $250 a night for our tiki-style bungalow. The structure gave me the ...