Singapore’s global reputation generally lies on three pillars—an all-in embrace of the free market, government-imposed orderliness, and a sweltering climate. This reputation informed my expectations as I prepared to spend a few weeks there this past fall. I certainly wasn’t anticipating the swirl of Malay and Peranakan (aka Chinese) traditions, the pockets of history around one corner and space-age newness around the next. I happily discovered an emergent creative and arts scene alongside the capitalism–elements that are reflected in this guide. (As for the heat—anyone who suggests you spend an afternoon outdoors there has probably never done so herself.)
I had drinks one night on the Singapore River with Caitlin Ramsdale, who left Brooklyn to help open the buzzy Warehouse Hotel and now consults on hospitality projects in the region. It’s her job to have good taste and, well, Caitlin’s very good at her job. I’m so pleased she agreed to collaborate on this Guide to Singapore.
You can also access this guide in map form on Passant, a new app that I love because it automatically logs the places I go all around the world–so convenient for a travel writer, like it’s taking my notes for me, and then allowing me to share those notes whenever I’m ready. Check out the app–once it’s downloaded, search for Flung Magazine under the “Friends” tab, and then click on “Singapore.” From there, the guide is yours! -ss
Words by Caitlin Ramsdale and Sarah Stodola. Photos by Sarah Stodola.
Coffee/Breakfast:
TIONG BAHRU BAKERY | Rightfully renowned coffee shop with on-site bakery. I had a green tea almond croissant here that I have daydreams about to this day. 56 Eng Hoon Street | Tiong Bahru.
TOBY’S ESTATE | The Aussie standard-bearer has an outpost on the Singapore River, with a tightly designed space in an old warehouse building and some creative coffee drinks in addition to the standards. 8 Rodyk Street | Robertson Quay.
COMMON MAN COFFEE ROASTERS | This always-buzzing café, in Robertson Quay, is beautifully sun-filled, punctuated with industrial design references, and has all the hipster menu stalwarts to boot. 22 Martin Road | Robertson Quay.
BRAWN & BRAINS | Further afield in the Geylang neighborhood, with a pared back menu & interior, this might be the most instagrammed café in Singapore. 100 Guillemard Road | Geylang.
AH CHIANG’S PORRIDGE | On the surface, this is a nondescript corner restaurant in hip Tiong Bahru. Go in and order, though, and it becomes an oasis of authenticity with hearty, satisfying congee on offer, a local staple. 65 Tiong Poh Road | Tiong Bahru.
YOU TIAO & BUTTERFLY | The Singaporean version of a doughnut stand, for mere pennies you can try all versions of fried goodness at this stall, from red bean, to sesame, to savory staple “yutiao,” which locals often eat with hot sauce. Tiong Bahru Market, 30 Seng Poh Road #02-59 |Tiong Bahru.
Y Y KAFEI | I ate so much kaya toast in Singapore, but mostly at hotel breakfasts. I have it on good authority from a local, however, that this is a great local spot for the divine coconut/egg/pandan spread. 37 Beach Road | Downtown Core.
Art and Museums:
GILLMAN BARRACKS | A former military barracks has been transformed into a self-described “contemporary arts cluster” filled with major international galleries and some more experimental spaces. Bonus attraction: The grounds are gorgeous. 9 Lock Road | Alexandra.
CHAN + HORI CONTEMPORARY | A sun-filled space in the Gillman Barracks arts complex, featuring provocative and contemporary works. 6 Lock Road, #02-09, Gillman Barracks | Alexandra.
ART BLUE STUDIO | A serious-minded gallery specializing in contemporary Vietnamese artists. The day I stopped in, the work of an intriguing and aesthetically diverse group of artists was on display. 23 Yong Siak Street | Tiog Bahru.
NATIONAL GALLERY SINGAPORE | Opened in 2015, this museum uses art to tell the history of Singapore. Also worth a visit just for the buildings that house it, the former Supreme Court and City Hall. 1 Saint Andrews Road | Downtown Core.
Hotels:
THE WAREHOUSE HOTEL | The name is literal—this outstanding boutique hotel is housed in a former spice warehouse. Design-wise, it’s close to perfect—don’t under any circumstances miss the pool. 320 Havelock Road, Robertson Quay. Read full review.
HOTEL INDIGO SINGAPORE KATONG | In terms of bang for your buck, you’d be hard-pressed to beat this spacious, impeccably designed mid-ranger. Huge rooms, great breakfast, rooftop pool, interesting neighborhood. 86 East Coast Road | Katong. Read full review.
INTERCONTINENTAL ROBERTSON QUAY | This brand new outpost of the classic international brand is making local waves with fantastic design, an impressive food & beverage lineup, and a large-scale investment in the revamp of the surrounding neighborhood. 1 Nanson Rd | Robertson Quay.
SOFITEL SINGAPORE CITY CENTRE | If you’re in Singapore for business, this newly opened hotel in the Central Business District will meet all of your needs, and then some. Less cool factor than the Warehouse, but the service is more thorough. 9 Wallich Street | Central Business District. Read full review.
THE SCARLET | Nearly an entire block-long row of 19th century shop houses has been transformed into a conveniently situated 80-room hotel. Ignore some of the questionable design touches (holy hot pink walls) and enjoy the historic immersion. 33 Erskine Road | Central Business District.
Shop:
BOOKS ACTUALLY | An unapologetically literary curation of books with a hipster bent, with more intriguing titles than have any right to be packed into such a small space. 9 Yong Siak Street | Tiong Bahru.
NANA & BIRD | A small, tightly curated clothing and accessories shop featuring a number of forward-thinking local designers. 1 Yong Siak Street | Tiong Bahru.
CAT SOCRATES | Not exactly intended as a gift shop, but the best gift shop ever, with all the knick-knacks you never knew you wanted. (There’s a second location in the Katong neighborhood.) 231 Bain Street, #02-25 | Downtown Core.
KIM CHOO KUEH CHANG | Started as a dumpling stall in 1945, this shop also sells all kinds of Peranakan goods—I bought a couple of gorgeous prints and bemoan to this day the jar of kaya that I left on the shelf there. 111 East Coast Road | Katong.
THE ATTABY COLLECTIVE | Twelve or so independent labels come together under this one gorgeous roof to display and sell their wares. A fantastic browsing situation. 420 Joo Chiat Road | Katong.
SUPERMAMA | The best stopoff for unconventional local gifts, which are designed in Singapore and mostly manufactured in Japan–they’re uniformly well-made and beautifully minimalistic. 265 Beach Rd | Kampong Glam.
HYGGE | Chock-full of pretty prints, artwork, pillowcases, and flowers, this place truly lives up to its name. 37 Haji Lane | Kampong Glam.
Sights:
GARDENS BY THE BAY | Is this what conquering nature looks like? A huge, highly sculpted park that you’d be a fool to miss. The nightly lights and music show here is free, bonkers, and weirdly mesmerizing—a true spectacle. 18 Marina Gardens Drive | Marina Bay.
SINGAPORE BOTANIC GARDENS | At this 158-year old World Heritage Sight, it’s all about the tropical landscaping, but I also saw a three-foot-long lizard during my visit, so keep your eyes peeled. Avoid the afternoon heat if possible. 1 Cluny Road | Tanglin.
HAJI LANE | If you can ignore all the tourists, it actually is very fun to walk up and down this bubbling, vibrant corridor in Singapore’s traditionally Muslim neighborhood, now quite gentrified with vintage clothing stores and bike shops. Haji Lane | Kampong Glam.
GOLDEN MILE COMPLEX | A truly off-the-beaten path adventure, this building pays homage to 1970’s architecture and general Singaporean weirdness, with an abandoned rooftop swimming pool, myriad Thai vendors, and a secret tunnel connecting to Golden Mile Tower. Go for the geometric shapes and photogenic, decaying interiors. 5001 Beach Road | Kallang.
THE PROJECTOR CINEMA | Basically Singapore’s only indie movie theater, serving food & booze that you can take in with you. It’s located at the top of an iconic 1970’s building that’s barely been updated, so it drips with patina. Golden Mile Tower | 6001 Beach Road, #05-00.
FORT CANNING PARK | A central location in the history of Singapore, yes, but also a lush, hilly respite from the city surrounding it. River Valley Road | Clarke Quay.
Eats:
CURE | Located on vibrant, colonial shophouse-lined Keong Saik Street, everything at this upscale chef-driven number is divine – from the service, to the ingredient-rich tasting menu, to the darn plateware. 21 Keong Saik St. | TANJONG PAGAR.
BIRDS OF PARADISE | Try as many of the offbeat gelato flavors as you like before you settle on one—I recommend the basil and the white chrysanthemum. 63 East Coast Road 01-05 | Singapore.
‘HEALHTY VEGETARIAN’ FOOD STALL | Hawker center stall serving up classic Chinese soups and rice dishes with faux-meat. Cram in with all the workers during weekday lunch. Amoy Street Food Centre, 7 Maxwell Road | Stall # 01-44 | Central Business District.
LUKES CHOPHOUSE | As close as you’ll find to a classic bistro in Singapore, this pristinely designed yet pared back space does steak and seafood to perfection and the service is prompt & friendly. 22 Gemmill Ln | Central Business District.
TING HENG SEAFOOD | Be sure to order the razor clams and chili crab at this outdoor “coffee shop” (Singaporean term for restaurant), as you enjoy being treated like a local (despite the fact that you will definitely be the only foreigner). 82 Tiong Poh Rd | Tiong Bahru.
PS CAFÉ AT HARDING | Set in a lush, treehouse-like space amidst the drama of the jungle in Dempsey Hill, this expat favorite hits all the right notes: food, ambiance, service. 28B Harding Rd | Dempsey Hill.
Drinks:
LANTERN | On a rooftop with a sweeping panoramic view of Singapore’s skyline. It may not be the highest rooftop bar in Singapore, but it’s probably the best. Fullerton Bay Hotel | 80 Collyer Quay | Downtown Core/Marina Bay.
THE WAREHOUSE HOTEL | It’s hard to find cocktails to recommend in Singapore, but those at the Warehouse come close to what we New Yorkers expect of them. 320 Havelock Road | Robertson Quay.
QUE PASA | Take a turn off of the contemporary chaos of Orchard Road into one of the few historic enclaves in Singapore, then stop into this perfect old shop house for a glass of wine. 7 Emerald Hill Road | Emerald Hill.
EMPLOYEES ONLY | Be sure to have your fortune told in the Singapore outpost of this New York City classic while sipping one of the house specials, like the vodka-based Vesper. The heritage shophouse space is just cozy enough to feel full all the time, with reliable food made even better by the good music and crowd. 112 Amoy St. | Central Business District
ATLAS BAR | With the way this places drips in Art Deco decadence and a soaring, hand-painted ceiling, you’d never know it was actually built in the early aughts. The seating policy is a bit pretentious, make a reservation in advance. 600 North Bridge Rd, Parkview Square | Kampong Glam.
