The Culver Hotel: A Contemporary Time Capsule

Flatiron buildings aren’t common in Los Angeles, a city more known for horizontal mid-century sprawl than for the 1920’s desert boomtown at its true core. A few weeks after relocating from the New York City area to Culver City, a neighborhood next door to Santa Monica and a brief drive south of Beverly Hills, I was stuck in traffic—in true Southern California fashion—and found myself in the shadow of a very vertical flatiron building that looked like a slice of old New York. It stood out to me immediately. I had to know more.

That iconic structure turned out to be the six-floor Culver Hotel, formerly the Hunt Hotel, built by Culver City’s founder, Harry Culver, who partnered with Charlie Chaplin for funding. It opened in 1924, back when three-sided buildings were the edgy skyscrapers of their day, thanks to the precedent set by America’s first flatiron building in New York City, developed with a unique triangular structure because it was wedged in where Fifth Avenue and Broadway narrowed. Architect Claud Beelman, who designed the Culver Hotel, was known for several other Beaux Arts and Art Deco landmark buildings around Los Angeles, including the renowned Eastern Columbia Building.

Fast-forward nearly a century, and the Culver Hotel still towers over downtown Culver City, its zig-zag streets now filled with yoga studios, thrift shops, and artisinal eateries.

It’s no small thing to be 95 years old and still draw a crowd. The Culver Hotel was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1997, is featured on the Culver City Historical Society’s branding, and has earned its reputation as the Grand Dame on the block, having spent decades seeing them come and go through her front doors. And by “them,” I mean almost anyone who’s appeared on screens large and small, from black and white to full, digital color: Chaplin, Clark Gable,John Wayne (later an owner of the hotel), Laurel and Hardy (who shot their first feature film in front of the hotel in 1927), the cast of the Wizard of Oz, Ronald Reagan, Francis Ford Coppola, Carson Daly, Mila Kunis, Reese Witherspoon, Adam Sandler, John Legend—you get the idea.

“With the Culver Hotel, our story was written for us, and we just perpetuate that legacy,” said creative director Maya Mallick, who took over ownership in 2007 and oversaw its restoration, which included her hand-selecting furniture from flea markets and antique dealers in the U.S. and Europe. “One hundred years ago, this area was silent films, and now we have this transition to 21st century media content and entertainment, and the Culver Hotel is part of that.”

It’s one of the few hotels I’ve visited recently that’s equal parts beloved neighborhood hangout, corporate retreat, and boutique destination getaway. For some reason, while neighborhoods such as Hollywood and Beverly Hills and even Santa Monica have become known for high-strung pretentiousness, Culver City and the Culver Hotel remain low-key with a strong community vibe, where no one screams or ogles over celebrities. “Hotel staff walk or bike to work,” Mallick said. “There’s a village-like atmosphere here. Culver City isn’t trying to be anybody. We’re a meeting point for a lot of people in the industry. People feel comfortable here.”

That felt very true. If you’re lucky enough to score one of the comfortable velvet sofas that anchor conversation corners throughout the main lobby and patio, then you settle in, ordering rounds of drinks or several cups of tea or coffee or shared plates. It almost feels European; no one rushes you. It’s the kind of place where you can sit and talk with friends for three hours and not realize the afternoon has just slipped by.

The Location: The Culver Hotel is approaching its centennial the way we all dream of approaching 100—by remaining relevant and staying at the center of everything as the city’s arts and entertainment district enjoys a renaissance. Amazon Studios will become the hotel’s new neighbor this year, occupying 350,000 square feet, with more restaurants, shopping, and entertainment venues expected to sprout up nearby in service of that new workforce. Culver Studios, on Washington Boulevard, is a three-minute walk from the hotel. Also down Washington Boulevard, or about a 5-minute walk, is the Kirk Douglas Theater (originally Culver Theatre), a “movie palace” built in 1946; and walk along Washington about 10 more minutes and you’ll be at SONY Pictures. Long story short, you can hang out in downtown Culver City and walk to almost anything worth walking to. If you’re in town on a Tuesday, the farmers’ market runs from 3 to 7 p.m., and you might bump into me buying freshly-laid eggs from my Egg Guy.

If you assume you need a car to get anywhere in Los Angeles, think again: the Culver City light rail station is a 12-minute walk from the hotel, with the Expo Line taking you to either downtown Los Angeles or within walking distance of Santa Monica’s beaches. the Culver Hotel is less than 6 miles from Los Angeles International Airport, making a taxi or Uber ride convenient and affordable.

The Room: I’m a sucker for both vintage and velvet, so I had a feeling my room would be divine once I lost count of all those fabulous sofas stationed throughout the common areas. There are 46 rooms—mine was on the fourth floor directly over the patio, where diners hang out until the wee hours, and faced Arc Light Cinema movie theater—a great experience if nothing good is on TV.

Painted dark blue with a matching blue sofa and white linens, the room was filled with eclectic furniture finds such as an armoire, coffee table, and a desk and chair. A chandelier hung in the middle of the room. Nothing really matched, and yet everything looked like it belonged together. My favorite touch was the “mini bar,” in a small vintage-style suitcase sitting on a bureau. It contained the usual movie theater snack favorites such as M&M candies, along with a 2015 The Wizard of Oz Merlot produced by Francis Ford Coppola’s vineyard. My only minor complaint is that the room was a little warm. But I once owned a 1926 colonial in which each room had its own micro-climate, so I’m accustomed to old buildings and their temperaments.

The Bathroom: Keeping with the hotel’s vintage vibes, the all-white bathroom was straightforward, which feels groundbreaking in hotel bathrooms lately. The space wasn’t trying to be some kind of emotional retreat or spa space with a partial shower door. With white subway tiles, Carrera marble, and chrome fixtures, it was a bathroom Charlie Chaplin would’ve recognized, with a standard sink, toilet, and bathtub below a window that was almost always full of L.A. sunlight.

The Common Areas: This is where the Culver Hotel shines, feeling like a contemporary time capsule with its stately columns, a black-and-white marble checkerboard floor, and more crystal chandeliers. I’ve been there three times: for brunch, afternoon tea, and dinner during live jazz. Weekends have a cozy, relaxed, celebratory vibe with the pop of uncorked champagne bottles filling the air. Wizard of Oz paraphernalia is on display in an exterior window just before walking in, and once you enter the hotel lobby, homages to the movies are everywhere: a vintage camera on the fireplace mantel and very large black-and-white photos of Clark Gable and Joan Crawford. The lobby has the feeling of a magnificent but very comfortable 1920’s living room. You half expect to see Clark Gable standing at the bar smoking a cigarette.’

There’s live jazz most nights from around 7:30 p.m., turning the lobby into a swinging supper club. Like many L.A. venues, the outdoors are integrated with the indoors, and the Culver Hotel offers ample patio dining surrounded by trees and greenery. The second floor houses an art gallery, event spaces with more chandeliers and velvet furnishings, and the Velvet Lounge, which has a speakeasy vibe. Near the lounge is Mr. Culver’s office as well as his former vault, which is now bartending space.

Food and Drink: I think there’s some space for imagination here. This is Southern California, with its year-round growing season—why not throw a surprise or two on the menu? The food is the usual, unpretentious gourmet gastropub fare, and if you just want to sit down to a thick, juicy steak and forget about things for a few hours, then the Culver Hotel is indeed the place.

My meals were consistently delicious the three times I visited. I ate avocado (gluten-free) toast at brunch, and enjoyed gluten-free sandwiches for afternoon tea. However, when we tried to order extra sandwiches, we were told that tea sandwiches are made ahead of time based on reservation counts—something to keep in mind if you skipped breakfast that day. For dinner, I had a kale salad with a side of wild mushrooms. Both were fresh and flavorful, and both were covered in Parmesan cheese.

The bar might be having more fun than the kitchen; cocktails range from the sultry—the “Old Blue Eyes” with vodka and blue cheese olives—to the combative–the “Smoking Gun,” with pineapple- and jalapeño-infused mezcal and pineapple juice. The Wizard of Oz lore is present here too–I sipped “The Ruby Slipper,” the hotel’s signature drink and a pretty pink concoction of vodka, sparkling wine and raspberries. I would’ve ordered one or two more if I hadn’t been taking notes that night.

The Service: This is L.A., so the New York minute doesn’t exist here. Also, any hotel that appeals to celebrities because it is relaxed and unpretentious likely doesn’t feature waiters and bartenders who jump on command. Sometimes servers were attentive, while other times it was hard to get their attention, especially when we sat on the patio. Nevertheless, everyone was friendly, and with the exception of the tea sandwiches, they always tried to accommodate. A continental breakfast and free WiFi is included in your room. Remember that check-out is at 11 a.m. in case you sampled too many Ruby Slippers.

The Verdict: In an age of modern minimalism, a hotel that prides itself on vintage chic and feels like your great aunt’s parlor is most welcome. The mix of locals and out-of-towners creates a lively atmosphere, and the hotel’s unique Hollywood history and proximity to the airport make it both interesting and accessible. America’s hotels, and even its cities, are developing an undesirable uniformity to them, where you can find the same qualities and services anywhere. It’s special to find a hotel not interested in keeping up.

The author stayed as a guest of the hotel for one night, which also included her dinner. She visited and dined at the hotel on her own two times.