I’d been in this back garden several times before, back when the space belonged to a restaurant called Kif and before that, another called Liquors, named for the liquor store that once lived here. It had always been pleasant, a superior back garden, even. But it took the current tenant, the restaurant Colonia Verde, to transform the space into some kind of mid-Atlantic paradise, by which I mean that it’s almost like the best of France and also almost like the best of the American South, maybe, and then also of Argentina. At the same time, it will not be pinned down to any of these places.
In all honesty, I’d considered Colonia Verde a restaurant best suited to meat eaters, a club I don’t belong to. But the garden is of such unending perfection that I was willing to navigate the Latin American menu for its rare nod to the vegetarian. (It’s worth noting that my meat-eating companions tend to ooze happiness as they dine here). To my delight, a just-now perusal of the menu online shows what seems to be an increased offering for us herbivores. In other words, if you want to see me this summer, you know where to look.
COLONIA VERDE | 219 Dekalb Avenue | Fort Greene, Brooklyn | (347) 689-4287 | Website
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